Monday 16 September 2013

Little French Jacket Sewalong - Planning

Have you noticed my first button in my sidebar?

Thewallinna

I'm joining Inna from Thewallinna and other creatures in her first sewalong: the Little French Jacket.

Ever since I picked up sewing again, I've been planning to make a jacket.  I even bought three patterns in my last pattern spending spree, just for the jackets.

I have made a jacket before, as part of my Textiles & Design class in Year 10, we had to make a tailored garment. Most of us chose jackets because they were oh-so-grown up when we were 15 (let's face it, they still are!). Mine actually worked out ok, it was a royal blue triumph of polyester, and I even wore it a few times.

Now that I'm a bona fide grown up, a jacket seems like a risky project. I want a nice jacket, a nice jacket means nice fabric. Nice fabric = expensive. Will I be able to do it justice? Inna's sewalong is just the kick-start I need to go ahead, bite the bullet and actually make a jacket. I am especially excited about the fitting part as I really need to develop my skills in this area. I am hoping to pick up some new tips and tricks, instead of just making the standard size of the pattern.

So, what am I making?

I already have one of the Burda patterns that Inna lists, 8949, so I am going to use that. Truth be told, I don't believe that this style of jacket truly suits my boxy frame but it is such a classic that I can't resist trying it out.

Of course, for a French jacket, I have to make view B with the contrast edges.

For the fabric, I have diverged from the recommended wool and chosen a cotton twill. Navy with white trim.  I couldn't bring myself to spend lots on an expensive wool fabric for my first effort at this sort of thing, particularly when I know, deep down, that this style is not my most flattering choice.

Cotton twill is very affordable, washable and should hold its shape nicely for a structured jacket.

I have also decided not to line it and will bind the seams instead with bias binding. (Inspiration from Sewaholic's beautiful Robson Coat.) I've not ordered it yet, pondering making my own, but I am quite drawn to a lime green spot for a bit of fun.  I think I will use self-covered buttons in the navy. I don't want to go over-the-top nautical with brass buttons.

I realise I am missing out on some of the great aspects of the sew-along: no lining, no quilting, no 3-piece sleeve, no chain hem, no trim and I will not have a truly Chanel-style jacket at the end of it, but I am ok with that. I'm going for fit with this project and I expect I will learn a lot without taking on more than my life will accommodate.

This can be a wearable muslin (toile) and I can plan on wool bouclé next time!

2 comments:

  1. Good to hear that you are going to join our sew-along! I still have not decided my pattern yet, but the one you chose is on top of my list! To be honest with you, as much as quilting, trims and chain are not the most important elements of the French jacket, lining is essential. Even if you don't want to do the quilting (which is mainly used to keep together loosely woven tweed) you still need lining for other reasons: to help the jacket keep its shape, to protect the fabric from perspiration. If I made my yellow jacketwithout lining, it would not feel nice agains the skin. But, hey, in the end you are the designer ;-) Looking forward to seeing your progress on the jacket!

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  2. Hi Inna, thanks so much for commenting on my post. I'm really looking forward to joining your sewalong. Thanks for the remarks about lining, I will give it some serious thought for sure.
    I adore your yellow jacket, it is gorgeous. LV and Chanel!

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