Crochet Ballet Bun Net

I had a tiny scrap of cotton yarn and it was the perfect colour to match the light blue leotard that my girls wear to ballet. I decided to make a bun net.

I searched for a pattern that was extremely net-like. Most of the ones I found were lovely, but had far too high a yarn:hair ratio. They looked too much like tea cosies. Instead, I made up my own version using triple crochet with lots of chain stitches in between.

Here are my notes (terms are US crochet terms):

Row 1: Chain (Ch) 8, join to form ring.

Row 2: Ch 7, *Triple Crochet (Tr) into ring, Ch 3* 5 times, join with slip stitch (sl st) to 4^th Ch at beginning of row. This makes a "wheel" with 6 "spokes".

Row 3: Ch 7, *Triple Crochet (Tr) into row 2, Ch 3* 11 times, join with slip stitch (sl st) to 4^th Ch at beginning of row. One Tr into stitch below, one into Ch between. This doubles the size of the "wheel" and the number of "spokes".  (If a larger diameter net is needed, repeat this row, doubling the stitches again.)
Row 4: Ch 7, *Tr into top of each Tr from row 3, Ch 3 between* 11 times. Join. This turns the corner to start the sides of the net by keeping the number of "spokes" the same.
Row 5: Same as Row 4. To make the net deeper, this row can be repeated as many times as needed.
Row 6: Ch 4, *Double crochet into row 5, ch 1* Once into the top of each "spoke", once in between. Join. This creates an edge for threading the elastic and/or ribbon.
Finishing: Thread elastic and sew into a loop and/or thread ribbon and leave ends loose for ties.

Making this was very fast, but I don't love triple crochet. Maintaining the tension is hard and my stitches were quite loose and loopy. But it is a perfect way to use up those last few scraps of crochet cotton.

Felt pouch, with tutorial

I had a gift wrapping emergency this week, so I decided to make my own gift pouch.

Here’s how I did it:

Supplies:

1 x felt rectangle

1 x piece of fabric (half a Fat Quarter is about right, depending on the size of the felt)

1 x snap

Thread

Yarn for crochet decoration
Button for decoration

Instructions:

   1.       Cut lining fabric so that it overhangs the felt by 1cm on all sides.

   2.       Fold the sides of the lining fabric inwards by 1.5cm, wrong sides together. Press. You can make mitred corners if you like.

   3.       Pin the lining fabric to the felt, wrong sides together and topstitch in place.

   4.       Hold the lined felt so that it is facing you in “Portrait orientation”. Fold up along the bottom just over 1/3 of the way up.

   5.       Stitch along sides of folded edge, reinforcing at the top edge. You now have an open envelope.

   6.       Fasten with a snap. If your snap is very large, or strong, you might need to include some interfacing inside the lining fabric before you attach it to the felt.

   7.       Decorate the front flap. You could sew a collection of buttons on the front, embroider a motif with embroidery thread or yarn. I made a crochet flower with a button centre. Pattern linked from my Ravelrynotes.

Doll Christmas Aprons

I just had to try my hand at these Christmas Baking Aprons.

I even had some furry fabric on hand, from which to construct them. I was fortunate to have this because both the red and the white are knits so I didn’t have to worry about hems and seam finishing. I treated the red as I would a felt fabric.

From the red I cut two rectangles, one 24cm x 14cm, the other 7cm x 10cm. I joined them with a zig zag stitch by just butting them up against each other, no seam allowance.

Then I added the waist tie. This could be any strip of fabric, about 75cm long: a roulade, bias tape, ribbon, whatever. In this case, I used a shoelace! I made sure it covered the zig zag join and ran over the skirt part to the ends and tied at the back.

Next, the white furry hem. This is attached to the front, right sides together, then I turned it to the back and stitched it down to the back.

I used a red ribbon for the neck tie. I ran it across the top of the apron, in hindsight, I should have run it down each side of the bodice piece. It would sit flat if I had, plus it would finish those side seams nicely.

Finally, I used a yarn darning needle and a scrap of white acrylic yarn to embroider a snowflake and a star to the front of each apron.

Time for the dollies to get making some Christmas cookies!

Child to Doll Pyjama Bottoms - Tutorial and Pattern

Both my girls wore and loved these giraffe flannel pyjamas. Wore and loved them so much that they wore out. Rather than consign them to the scrap heap, I decided to refashion them into doll's pyjama bottoms.

Here's how I did it:

Step 1: Cut open seams at inside leg and crotch.

Step 2: Cut out doll size pants with pattern. I drafted one from an existing pair of doll pants. Here is my pattern draft, if you want to use it.

I kept the existing hem because the piping was really cute, and hey, less work for me!

Step 3: Sew right sides together along inside leg seam. Finish edges.

Step 4: Turn one leg right side out.

Step 4a: Insert right side out leg into other leg...

...until it looks like you just have one leg.

Step 5: Sew crotch seam all the way round in one piece. Leave a 1 inch space at one end of the seam.
Here I have marked the seam line with blue chalk. The start is marked with the scissors, the finish, with space, marked by the pencil. Finish seam allowances.

Step 6: Pull pants right side out and admire your work.

Step 7: Measure doll's waist for elastic. I got lazy here and sewed the elastic into a loop, folded the loop into the waistband and topstitched it closed.

Done!

Gap-inspired nautical top / dress (and tutorial)

I saw this top in the window of Gap Kids and had two thoughts: 1) I love it; and 2) I could make that.

So I did.  Here’s how:

Making the bodice / band piece

Cutting out

1.       Using your child’s chest measurement, add 1cm for ease and 3cm for seam allowance = total band width.

2.       Cut two strips of fabric: total band width x 7cm

3.       Measure distance over your child’s shoulder, from band to band.  Add seam allowance = shoulder strap length.

4.       Cut 4 strips of shoulder strap length x 6cm.

Now you have 6 pieces, 2 for the band and 4 for the shoulder straps:

Assembling shoulder straps

You can use anything for the piping: purchased piping with cording, flat piping, bias binding, or strips of fabric cut on the grain.  I used home-made bias binding made from the red spot fabric.  Because of the spot, it looks a bit of a mess on the wrong side which is covered with white spots.  Please excuse this, the right side has come out as plain red (re-use, recycle, right?)   

You’re going to make a “sandwich” of fabric, piping and facing and sew through all the layers, right sides together.  

Fold your strips of piping in half, wrong sides together, and pin to right side of shoulder strap. 

You can baste it in place at this point if you like.

Lie the facing piece of your strap on top of all the layers, right sides together.  Move pins to the top of the “sandwich”.  Sew in place along each long side.  Turn right sides out.  Press.

You should have two shoulder straps, with piping down each side.  Short ends are unfinished:

Assembling band and straps

For the bodice band, baste the piping to the outside piece only.  Don't add the facing yet.

Pin your shoulder straps to the right side of the fabric.  They should be on an angle at the back.  (I had to re-do mine after I took this photo).    It is a good idea to get the measuring tape against your kiddo's chest to get the measurement you want between the straps.

The original top has straps which cross at the back, with an elasticized panel so the top pulls over the child's head.  You could do this if you are using a stretch fabric, adding shirring or by using button fastenings for the shoulder straps.  I went for plain over the shoulder for this first attempt.

Before you stitch, add the facing fabric to the "sandwich", right sides together:

Sew one continuous stitch along one short edge, the top row (through the shoulder straps) and other short edge, turning at each corner.  Leave the bottom long edge open, this is where you will insert the skirt.  Trim the corners, turn right side out.  Press.

This is the time to have your child try on the band bodice so you can check the placement of the straps and adjust if necessary.  (This was when I discovered how much of an angle I needed for the back of the straps.)  While they are wearing it, take the chance to measure how long you want your top/tunic/dress to be and note the measurement from the band to the hem.

Attaching the skirt

Add seam allowance plus hem allowance to the length you want.  Cut one rectangular piece of fabric of this total length. 

I was making a dress so I used the full width of the fabric and sewed selvedge to selvedge.  For a top, you would probably want less fullness so take out a section of width.

Fold your fabric in half, right sides together and sew a seam up the back of the garment.  Leave a 10cm gap at the top.  Press seams flat and finish edges if needed.   

Gather or pleat your skirt piece so that the circumference fits into the band.

Attach your skirt inside the band to the facing.  Wrong side of skirt is upside down and against right side of facing.  

If you like topstitching, you can topstitch the front of the band to the skirt.  I hand sewed, underneath the piping, to secure the front of the band.

Create a single fastening at the back using your favourite method (button, loop, snap, hook & eye, ribbon ties).  I had this single button from my grandmother's button stash which was just perfect for this project.

Hem, and you're done.

Here is mine, side by side with the original:

Not too bad, if I do say so myself!  And, she likes it...