Mini Me Coco Sweatshirt Dress

Getting my sewjo back with a Coco dress seems to be how I need to ease myself through January. Even though I made my NYE Tablecloth between Christmas and New Year, I still find that the Christmas comedown and preparing for two birthdays in January means that I don't sew at all in January. Then I start to panic and think that I'll never sew again. Then I calm down and make something easy. Like a sweatshirt dress.

Big Sis has been an admirer of my Coco Sweatshirt Dress ever since I finished it last February. She, adorably, asked for one of her own. I had plenty of fabric left over from mine, so I added it to my sewing queue.

For the pattern I went back to one of my all time favourite children's patterns: Simplicity 1584. Seriously, this pattern is amazing! It is a perfect basic pattern block, the long sleeve dress can be made short sleeve, or sleeveless, I've done a drop waisted dress from it - actually, three; it also has a long sleeve knit t-shirt, pull on bottoms - which together would make great pyjamas - and of course capes. Because everybody needs capes. I've made three myself. Between this pattern and the Cottage Mama Party Dress, I think I have everything I need to keep my children in clothing. And it goes up to a size 8. Which still fits my 11 year old. Best Pattern Ever!

It was also FAST! On Thursday night, I got inspired to get on with it (two days until her birthday), dug out the fabric and pattern, cut out, realising I could cut the back on the fold - saving another seam in the process - and overlocked all the seams together. Win for already having dark thread in my overlocker. She tried it on and I scooped out about an inch from the front neckline. I didn't lengthen the sleeves because I was adding ribbing. I did add two inches to the hem length, and then shortened it by the same amount in the end. The side seams also needed shaping at the waistline. This is a very shapeless dress.

The next night, I found the navy ribbing I bought at the same time as the fabric and sewed that on to the neckline and sleeve cuffs. The fit was really good, but the colour (Dark Navy) is darker than the main fabric. She knew it was on its way, so I didn't have to rush to get it finished for her birthday. She was pleased that I was working on it though.

She liked the idea of pink patch pockets, and these scraps from my Liberty Sweatshirt (also Coco) are a very nice match with the navy. I really struggle with patch pockets. I never get them exactly right. And this style, with the marked contrast, is very unforgiving. I used the small pocket from the Coco pattern, and added 1/4 inch all around. I also topstitched the top edge of the pocket facing so that these were held down properly. I forgot to add a proper allowance for folding over at the time of cutting out. The pocket pattern piece should not really be square, but rectangular to allow for this.

Never mind that, it is a minor niggle with an otherwise great pattern. I mainly got my pockets sewn on straight, without too many wavy edges. The hem is finished with two rows of top stitching too. I would have liked a deeper hem, but chose to leave it just a smidgeon longer than requested because she is growing fast, this big little girl of mine.

Costs: 
 Fabric: used previously, £0.00
 Pattern: used previously, £0.00 
 Notions: navy ribbing, £6.45
Total: £6.45

Navy Sweatshirt Coco Dress

It takes me a very long time to get out of my post-Christmas sewing rut. Almost two months since my Hibiscus Dress, and I had not sewn anything. I eased myself back into sewing with Coco from Tilly and the Buttons, in a navy fleece fabric. Something that had been in my sewing queue since last winter, when I made my Coco Sweatshirt.

This is becoming the pattern that I turn to for getting my sew-jo back after the new year. Two years in a row now. It is nice and simple, and a great middle-of-winter comfort wear too. This year I was faster to get back on the horse. Last year looks like it took me until February to get sewing, and I didn't post the completed item until 1 March. I snuck the start of this into January 2017 by checking Instagram and reading the pattern instructions. I was all like, "Wow, that is so simple! I could totally do that!" Duh.

So I got on with cutting out and putting it together with my overlocker. I made a size 4, grading to 3 from the waist to the hem. All previous alterations the same, and I had already adjusted the paper pattern, which saved me loads of time. If I made this in a ponte, rather than a fleece, I think I should probably make a size 3. There is plenty of ease.

I finished the cuffs and neckline by overlocking the edges, turning under and sewing two rows of topstitching. The finished edge feels quite stable, so I didn't add stay tape to the neckline. If it pulls, I'll have to put in elastic, or add ribbing to the neckline. 

I deliberately stayed away from ribbing because I wanted it to be dressier and less sweatshirt-y. I have to laugh at myself because I hated sweatshirts as a child! My school tracksuit was green. Urgh! What a horrible colour! This fabric is absolutely school sweatshirt fabric. They even listed it as such on eBay, where I bought it. Here I am, reliving my school years in a sweatshirt dress. But hopefully passers by are not going to be reminded of their school tracksuits, or will forgive me in my quest for warm, cosy dressing.

Anywhoo, back to the construction. I find this neckline too wide for my preference. It gives a nice balanced look to the dress and it is fine for the funnel neck, but I find it too open, and not really suitable for such a depths-of-Winter garment. If I make this version again, I would reduce the neckline opening by 1cm.

Due to the bulkiness of the fabric, I made the hem on the shorter side. I'll always be wearing tights with it. Again, I ran two rows of straight stitching for the hem. The style means I don't need a stretchy hem and I don't have much luck with twin needles. Before I hemmed, I angled the side seams in so that I didn't have to ease in the bulk.

Then it was on to the... pockets!

I really did agonise over the pockets for quite some time. They are a very bold style statement and I must confess that they are not entirely me. But they are fun and actually add a slimming element to the finished dress.

I always knew they should be mustard colour, and I would use my scraps of Interlock from a cardigan and a t-shirt. But I also knew that poor workmanship would be very obvious, and this is a tricky fabric to work with. I was so desperate to do everything I could to not pull them out of shape in the making and the attaching.

I cut really carefully, and the interlock is much more stable than a jersey, so this wasn't too much of a challenge. Then I used the small pocket pattern as a template for pressing around. The pressing wasn't doing enough of a good job on the corners, so I went for a new solution.

First, I sewed a line of stitching just outside the fold line, then I hand basted the mitres in place and pressed again. This was much better. I could get the corners properly square and not saggy. They are not perfectly square, but they are the best patch pockets I have managed to date. I attached them using my walking foot. Unusually, the pattern doesn't include markings for the pocket placement, so I just decided for myself. Which is fine too. 

The pockets probably took me as long to sew as the whole of the rest of the dress. 

Then... I took some photos and decided that the dress was all wrong.

Not just the styling, with the sheer tights - which I obviously wouldn't wear in winter, but the pockets were just too clownish.

I had a play with alternative pocket styles. Like so:

I decided that Option 3 would work best. Navy patch pockets with a mustard accent at the top. So I unpicked the pockets and cut the tops off to attach to new navy pockets. Cue the same stitching and basting the corners. The sweatshirt fabric doesn't press as closely. But this pocket style is much better for me. Breaking the visual expanse of navy skirt, but being a bit more understated in the execution. 

I also styled it better with proper winter tights, and boots. 

I am happy with this as a cosy, casual winter dress, and a great sewing re-entry. Big Sis likes it so much that she has asked me to make her one with the rest of my fleece. Square patch pockets included!

Costs:
 Fabric: 2m (eBay) £13.20 - only used about 1.25m
 Contrast Fabric: scraps, £0.00
 Pattern: Coco (Tilly and the Buttons) £0.00 - used previously
 Thread: Started 4 new spools of black overlocker thread, £15.80 - thought I had bought navy, but apparently not
              Started a new 1000m spool of navy sewing thread. £9.89 - not buying that size again
Total: £28.89

A Cashmere Delphine Skirt

I'm powering through my to-sew queue with the help of Tilly and the Buttons patterns! After my Coco Sweatshirt, I traced off the Delphine Skirt from Tilly's book, Love at First Stitch and made it that weekend.

This is the third pattern I have made from the book, and the last in my queue. Based on my Mimi Blouse, Megan Dress, Coco, my measurements, and the finished garment size, I cut out a size 4. Should have made a 3, it has come out too large. 

The pattern was very straightforward, it is an amazing beginner skirt because all the shaping is at the side seams. No darts or pleats to slow you down. I left out the waistband because I have a short waist, and I wanted the top of the skirt to be at my natural waist. I added a lining so I just attached the main fabric to the lining. I did understitch, and top stitch them together, so there is a lot of reinforcement in this area. It was also a bit of a pain to unpick when I needed to pinch in at the side seam, but I did it (on one side, anyway).

The fabric is a cashmere/wool/mink blend that I got at the Knitting & Stitching Show last year. I got a meter of it, intending to make a skirt. It is lovely and soft and has some drape, but has enough body to show off the A line too. I am not sure if it is terribly durable, but it is lovely to wear.

I got the lining at the same time. While I love the colours and pattern, it is the most enormous pain to cut out. Thankfully, the pattern is geometric and actually follows straight lines. That gives me an outside chance of cutting on grain. I literally have to line up every circle with the selvedge and a quilting ruler, along both the warp and the weft, and tease every single circle into place. Thank goodness the pattern pieces fitted on to my cutting mat without me having to slide the mat around under the fabric.

I had a brown zip in my stash, so I used that instead of an invisible zip. I am pretty pleased with how it went in. Not too much wobbling about. I hemmed the skirt with some brown hemming lace that I bought in Canada a few years ago. I shortened the length because this colour is a bit tricky and I will always wear this with tights.

Costs:
Pattern: £4.50
Fabric, 1m: £12
Lining, 1m: £4
Zip, stash: £0
Hem lace: £0.79
Thread, stash: £0
Total: £21.39

Coco Liberty Sweatshirt

As lovely as Liberty Tana Lawn is, to sew and wear, it is not that practical in our cold, wet climate.  Liberty print, in a sweatshirt fabric? Now that has potential! Until I move to the Far East, fleecy fabric is most welcome.  Inspired by Charlie's lovely Liberty print sweatshirt, I combed the internets to find some Liberty sweatshirt fabric of my own. 

The fabric is lovely and snuggly, the outside has stood up well to washing, no pilling at all, and it is a dream to sew. I have no trouble with skipped stitches, which I usually struggle with in knits. It is kind of strange in the stretch: there is almost no stretch side to side, but it does stretch a little along the warp. It is almost a woven in terms of low stretch, and I have had a bit of strain on the seams when I take it off.

Pink brights secured, I had to decide on the pattern, it was between Tilly's Coco and the Grainline Linden. I chose the Coco for 3 reasons: 1. the set in sleeve is less casual than a raglan, which is more "me", 2. the dress and top are both part of the pattern so I wouldn't have to guess when switching between the two, and 3. Tilly is a UK-based designer and buying local makes me feel good.

The pattern was very simple, I only used 4 pattern pieces, including the roll neck. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough fabric for the dress version. (I should have, but my 1.5m piece was cut very crooked and came out at a true 1.1m). The top is probably more versatile, and I did (sort of) want a sweatshirt.

The fitting is absolutely fine, I made my two usual pattern adjustments: 1 inch off the waist and 1/2 inch sway back.  I didn't have quite enough fabric so I took about 1/2 inch off each sleeve and this length is more than long enough for me. I kept the side splits, which I need with such a low stretch fabric, but I took about 1 inch off the hem length.

I didn't need to sew with a zig zag stitch, I used an ordinary stitch on the sleeve hems.  I was finally going to use my twin needle for the hem, it worked beautifully on the scrap fabric, but I broke it on the final run. No more twin needle. I just used two rows of straight stitch. 

I increased my stitch length to 2.75, but I didn't use a walking foot because the bulky fabric didn't fit into the lower clearance.

I am very happy with my finished sweatshirt. I have worn it a lot, it does everything I want it to: keeps me warm and looks interesting and not sloppy.

I still have some substantial scraps left over. I'm thinking I can pair one of them with navy for a raglan sweatshirt, and another can probably fit a child as a cosy skirt.

Costs:
Fabric: £40
Pattern: £9.50
Thread: stash
Notions: none
Total: £49.50

Wool Megan Dress

The Megan Dress from Tilly Walnes’ book, Love at First Stitch, was the reason I bought this book. (But my Mimi Blouse was my first make.) Its simple, classic lines made it a winner and I was keen to get started. My love for the pattern multiplied when I found this beautiful wool fabric at the Knitting and Stitching Show in March, and I knew the resulting dress would be a staple in my wardrobe.

The fabric was from M Rosenberg & Son and buying it was such a delight. They had a great selection of wools and suiting and I also picked up a meter of lovely a cashmere/wool blend. More on that later.

The warp threads are black and the weft is brown and turquoise blue. The overall effect is brown, but navy is a great accent for this, as is black. I ended up using black thread and a black zip. I also bought the polyester lining fabric from M Rosenberg, I love its Art-Deco/Victorian motif. It reminds me of Victorian china and crockery decorations, as well as ceiling roses.

I started the sewing with the lining but it was slippery as anything. The motifs helped me line it up straight, otherwise I would not have had a hope of getting it right. Thank goodness it was a lining. I sewed it with a walking foot, but it still puckered like crazy.

The main fabric has no right or wrong side, but it does have a slight nap. By adding a lining and omitting the facings, I only had five pattern pieces and my fabric was wide enough that I cut the dress from 1.25 meters.  I think I have enough left from my 2m to get a blazer, or at least a skirt.

Now for the pattern… Based on my sizing from the Mimi Blouse, I traced a Size 3.

I changed the skirt sizing by tapering to a size 2 to make the bottom more pegged. I thought the skirt shape on the photos was neither here nor there: not quite A line, but not pencil either. This is probably a deliberate decision to get a straight-ish shape with simpler sewing for beginners, it is easier to explain when there is no vent to cut or sew. I forgot about  adding one, but my skirt allows just enough movement. 

During tracing, I shortened the waist by moving the hip curve up. It is nice to have a chance to do this during the tracing of the pattern, instead of folding afterwards. I even remembered to lower the hem by a corresponding 1.5 inches. Finally, I added a small sway back adjustment by shaving 0.5cm from the centre back of the waist seam at both the bodice and skirt, for a total of 1cm.

I changed the construction order to set the sleeves in flat, then sewed up the whole underarm and side bodice in one seam. I find setting in the sleeve much easier on a flat armscye. Why would you manoeuver the sleeve into a small, circular opening if you don't have to? I'm asking seriously here - I would really like to know if I could be doing it better. Remembering the snug fit of the sleeves from the Mimi Blouse, I increased the underarm seams by 0.5cm, at the cuff, not the top. This is a more comfortable sleeve, especially given the fullness at the top. They are gathered, not eased into place. I was quite surprised by the amount of gathering in these sleeves and I had to press the seams towards the sleeves to avoid a very Edwardian shoulder line. I don’t mind the look, but it is something to bear in mind with this pattern.

I constructed the lining and the dress separately, leaving the centre back seam open, then joined the two at the neckline by machine, and understitched (my favourite secret weapon!) I then inserted the zip on the outer fabric only. Proper fitting can only take place once the zip is in. No amount of holding the dress together gives a true picture of what is really going on. Unfortunately for me, there were all kinds of fit issues going on. The sizing has come out very small. I don't know if I messed up by raising the waistline, but it was so high that I had to add a waistband. I didn't shorten the bodice at all but the seamline was right under my bust. Luckily, I had lots of fabric to spare and I really like the look of the waistband. I cut it from one single width of fabric. This blown-out picture shows the seam lines in the front.

There was absolutely no ease at all in the dress. To make it fit, I felt like I unpicked every single seam and dart and redid them with smaller seam allowances. Here is a list:

Side seams: 1cm seam allowance each sice = 2cm gained @ waist

Centre back seam: 1cm allowances through the waist, 0.5cm when I could manage it = 1.5cm gained @ waist

Back darts (bodice and skirt): reduce dart legs by 0.5cm = 2cm gained @ waist

Under bust dart tucks: unpicked legs, left tucks in place as pleats = +3cm gained @ bust

Front armscye seam: wanted to reduce the seam allowance to 1cm but I had already clipped the seam allowance.

Zip: angle sharply in at neckline to make dart.

Lining: removed all darts/pleats for maximum ease.

I could still do with taking a snick out of the shoulder seams at the neckline. It is a bit too baggy. When the dress was tight, this was very pronounced, but I am leaving all my understiching in place for now because the extra ease I added means the neckline has settled down somewhat. It is not perfect, but close enough. I also stitched the seam allowances of the lining and the bodice together at the front of the waist because the lining was still curling out of the neckline.

I know that in choosing not to make a toile I am choosing to make any alterations in the final fabric, but it was frustrating to have to make so many changes. It meant that I took a lot longer to finish than I should have. I put it aside for weeks at a time, and only came back to it in short bursts now and then. Unpicking dark thread from dark fabric on dark evenings probably had a lot to do with it too.

Finishing:

I was pleased that I decided to stablise the zip with stabilising tape, purchased for my grey dress. It meant fewer puckers, but there are still some at the bottom. The zip went in beautifully. Both times.

I hemmed the lining, at the sleeves and hem, by machine, then hemmed the sleeves by hand and catch stitched the sleeves to the main fabric sleeve. 

I used hemming lace to hem the bottom of dress, attached by machine, then hand stitched into place. 

I love this dress because I love the fabric. It is totally my signature style and I love that I have sewn stuff that I will wear to work. But the tight bodice is a problem. As to whether this pattern is a keeper, even in a size 4: the jury is still out.

Accounts:

Main fabric: £15

Lining fabric: £5

Pattern: £3.50

Zip: £0.50

Stabilising tape: £0.75

Hem lace: £0.57

Thread: stash
Total: £25.33

Liberty Mimi Blouse

Love at First Stitch, by Tilly Walnes, breaks the mould of typical sewing books and gives a bunch of great patterns instead of the usual home furnishings and tote bags. The book had me wanting to make most of the garments in it and I have a long to-sew queue from it.

I started with the Mimi Blouse, a perfect match for Liberty Tana Lawn. I have been wanting to sew with this fabric ever since I first went to Liberty and fondled the lovely bolts of fabric. I finally got around to buying some at the Knitting and Stitching Show in March.

Mimi is a cute, button front blouse with lots of lovely design features. I particularly love the Chelsea collar swooping down along the v-neckline, just deep enough to be interesting, without being revealing.

The pattern is really easy to trace, (thanks to House of Pinhero for the baking paper tip!) the pieces are all on the same sheet and there is no crazy overlapping like you get with Burda Style.

I traced a size 3, and - completely unheard of, for me - made a toile. It turns out the blouse is very roomy, the gathers at the back yoke look lovely at the top, but they do add a lot of volume through the rest of the blouse. I took a large wedge off the hips and graded it down to the size 2 through the side seams. The sleeves were a bit small at the cuff, something I had also read from other bloggers who have made this. I changed the seam allowance at the cuff of the sleeve to be 1cm, instead of 1.5cm.

I didn't interface the topside of the collar, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that it is the underside that is interfaced, so I did that. I wondered whether it was really worth interfacing the full facings, but I did. I added another small patch of interfacing underneath each buttonhole to help stabilise them.

I remembered to make a tiny sway back adjustment, I just pulled up the centre section at the gathered yoke, it helps a bit.

My buttons are vintage, from my grandmother's stash. I am so pleased with how perfect they are for this blouse.

I've also changed how I wear it. The longer sleeve length looked a bit frumpy to me, so I have cuffed the sleeve so that the facing is on show. It's a shame because it covers up the cute pleats, but the smaller puffed sleeve suits me better.

I like it better tucked in, but from these photos, I can see I look better with it untucked.

The Tana Lawn was lovely to sew with and is great to wear. It really is a marvellous fabric. I chose this greenish grey because I wanted something a bit neutral and not too ditsy. Since I made it, I have worn it at the weekend, and to work, and got compliments!

Costs:
 Fabric, Liberty: £28.00
 Interfacing, Clothspot: £2.00
 Thread, used previously: £0.00
 Buttons, from Granny's stash: £0.00
 Pattern, Tilly Walnes: £4.50 (1/3 of book price)
 Toile fabric, salvaged: £0.00
Total: £34.50