Cathy makes...: Gap-inspired nautical top / dress (and tutorial)

I saw this top in the window of Gap Kids and had two thoughts: 1) I love it; and 2) I could make that.

So I did. Here’s how:

Making the bodice / band piece

Cutting out

1. Using your child’s chest measurement, add 1cm for ease and 3cm for seam allowance = total band width.

2. Cut two strips of fabric: total band width x 7cm

3. Measure distance over your child’s shoulder, from band to band. Add seam allowance = shoulder strap length.

4. Cut 4 strips of shoulder strap length x 6cm.

Now you have 6 pieces, 2 for the band and 4 for the shoulder straps:

Assembling shoulder straps

You can use anything for the piping: purchased piping with cording, flat piping, bias binding, or strips of fabric cut on the grain. I used home-made bias binding made from the red spot fabric. Because of the spot, it looks a bit of a mess on the wrong side which is covered with white spots. Please excuse this, the right side has come out as plain red (re-use, recycle, right?)

You’re going to make a “sandwich” of fabric, piping and facing and sew through all the layers, right sides together.

Fold your strips of piping in half, wrong sides together, and pin to right side of shoulder strap.

You can baste it in place at this point if you like.

Lie the facing piece of your strap on top of all the layers, right sides together. Move pins to the top of the “sandwich”. Sew in place along each long side. Turn right sides out. Press.

You should have two shoulder straps, with piping down each side. Short ends are unfinished:

Assembling band and straps

For the bodice band, baste the piping to the outside piece only. Don't add the facing yet.

Pin your shoulder straps to the right side of the fabric. They should be on an angle at the back. (I had to re-do mine after I took this photo). It is a good idea to get the measuring tape against your kiddo's chest to get the measurement you want between the straps.

The original top has straps which cross at the back, with an elasticized panel so the top pulls over the child's head. You could do this if you are using a stretch fabric, adding shirring or by using button fastenings for the shoulder straps. I went for plain over the shoulder for this first attempt.

Before you stitch, add the facing fabric to the "sandwich", right sides together:

Sew one continuous stitch along one short edge, the top row (through the shoulder straps) and other short edge, turning at each corner. Leave the bottom long edge open, this is where you will insert the skirt. Trim the corners, turn right side out. Press.

This is the time to have your child try on the band bodice so you can check the placement of the straps and adjust if necessary. (This was when I discovered how much of an angle I needed for the back of the straps.) While they are wearing it, take the chance to measure how long you want your top/tunic/dress to be and note the measurement from the band to the hem.

Attaching the skirt

Add seam allowance plus hem allowance to the length you want. Cut one rectangular piece of fabric of this total length.

I was making a dress so I used the full width of the fabric and sewed selvedge to selvedge. For a top, you would probably want less fullness so take out a section of width.

Fold your fabric in half, right sides together and sew a seam up the back of the garment. Leave a 10cm gap at the top. Press seams flat and finish edges if needed.

Gather or pleat your skirt piece so that the circumference fits into the band.

Attach your skirt inside the band to the facing. Wrong side of skirt is upside down and against right side of facing.

If you like topstitching, you can topstitch the front of the band to the skirt. I hand sewed, underneath the piping, to secure the front of the band.

Create a single fastening at the back using your favourite method (button, loop, snap, hook & eye, ribbon ties). I had this single button from my grandmother's button stash which was just perfect for this project.