Miette II

I love this cardigan pattern so much! I finished my first Miette and cast straight on for a second as my very next project.

This yarn is quite different from the first. It is Sirdar Denim Sport Aran, an acrylic/cotton/wool mixture. I had made a cushion cover previously so I knew I wanted a finer knit using a smaller needle size. I upsized the pattern to the 42 to compensate. The sizing turned out ok, the negative ease is forgiving, but the bust darts are too high. Moving them to the side would be more forgiving but their placement is one of the reasons that this pattern looks so nice when worn. 

I did full length sleeves again. I kept trying on and considered everything from cap sleeves to elbow length to three-quarters. But the yarn is heavy and bulky so full length sleeves make the most sense to me. It is nice and warm on.

I omitted the lace at the sleeve cuffs and skipped the row of purl that segues into the rib. I just started the rib immediately and I prefer the smoother finish it gives.

I found the sleeve decreases to be too severe and gave a lump. I changed the decreases to work over 6 rows, not 4. Two normal rows in between each decrease row. My Ravelry notes are here.

I messed up a bit of the lace around the neckline and got the buttonhole placement quite wrong in the middle, but I'm going to keep it as is.

Costs:
 Yarn: £7.44
 Buttons: £3.50
Total: <£11.00

Popover Isle of Wight Dresses

The second Isle of Wight Dress needed to be quick and easy or it wasn't going to make it to the Isle of Wight for a photoshoot. Luckily the Oliver & S Popover Sundress is just that. 

I've made the doll dress before but not the child size. This is a really cute style in both sizes. Plus it is quick and uses very little fabric. And the pattern is free! What's not to like?

I especially love how the scale changes in the doll dress, turning an overly busy fabric into something more special. I added a row of white piping between the yoke and the dress and I made the straps out of the same fabric as the dress and yoke.

I did French seams and I really must add side seam pockets next time.

Cost:

Fabric (both): £0.91

Isle of Wight Dress

This fabric came from the Isle of Wight, purchased on our last summer holiday, and I think it is only fitting that it return to the Isle of Wight as two dresses.

The first is inspired by a Boden dress.

Cathy S/S 2014

Boden S/S 2014

I love how the pin tucks change the pattern of the fabric, making the design more dense, then flowing into the skirt. My tucks are not as tiny and I didn't make separate cap sleeves but it was a good starting point for inspiration.

I used The Cottage Mama's Party Dress pattern, an old favourite (free to subscribers of her newsletter). I went for a size 8, even though she was measuring smaller; it gives her a lot of room to grow.

I added pin tucks before I cut the bodice. I did this by measuring the length of fabric I would need for the bodice and then, starting from the centre, began tucking. I stopped when I got bored. It turned out to be 4 on each side. This is where the neckline started to curve, so it was a good place to stop.

When I cut the bodice, I extended the sleeves outward. I wanted the cap sleeve effect from the Boden dress, but I didn't want to draft, and set in, a separate sleeve.  I made a straight line across from the shoulder for another 4.5 inches.

In reality, this method actually didn't work very well. First, she couldn't even get her arms in, so I had to re-do the side seams and extend the opening down into them. There still isn't a natural movement through the sleeves, a fold appears through the bodice. I also added a notch in the sleeve, which gives a bit of extra movement.

It was surprisingly easy to create. Just a V where the lining joins the fabric. I could have made it more  of a line and less of a V.

I changed the back into a normal button back, I got these flower buttons on the Isle of Wight at the same time as the fabric last year. I was hoping to make a button front dress but in the end, I wasn't brave enough. The button back is very practical, I can fasten them at the perfect distance to fit her and move them as she grows. The dress will always fit well!

I made the skirt of two widths of fabric, one for the front and the other for the back. I thought it was a bit full, particularly in the polycotton which has no drape, but she loves the fullness and curseys like a princess. She loves the side seam pockets too and I'm glad I went to the extra trouble to include them.

Cost:

 Fabric: £3.19

 Buttons: £0.75

Total: £3.94 (cf Boden £22.40 on sale!)

Fabric Tote Bag

I made this bag as a gift for my Mum, she uses a fabric bag all the time and her favourite "Elephant Bag" (because it has elephants on it, naturally) has been worn to death. There is something of a quest going on to find the right replacement for the Elephant Bag. I have thrown my hat in the ring with this as a contender.

I used twill cotton, bought on eBay from Favourite Fabrics. I used about half a meter for the bag and same for the contrast.

I used the dimensions from a couple of existing bags that I have. The blue is cut 71cm long and it wraps around the bottom so there is no seam at the base. The contrast and straps, co-incidentally, are also 71cms long. Contrast is 14cm tall, straps are 7cm wide.

I made the blue lower part first, I used French seams for the side seams. Then cut the white fabric to match the dimensions and sewed it in a loop. I attached it to the blue with a flat felled seam. My first ever! It wasn't too bad, but my machine, and the straightness of my seam struggled with all that thickness of fabric. But I like the extra strength, and the fact that there are no raw edges anywhere on this bag.

I love the little crosses where the straps attach to the bag. I feel like it makes it look just like a "real" bag!

Total cost: £6.33. This is quite a bit more than you expect to pay for a fabric tote in a store, but I think it looks more like a handbag than a shopping bag.

The real question is: will the Elephant Bag finally be consigned to the scrap bag in the sky?

The importance of blocking

Who would have thought that I would be converted to believing in something as boring as blocking? Something I considered just a distraction from "real" knitting? Well... witness these before and after pictures.

Before:

After:

See how curled and misshapen it is? Then how lovely and smooth it comes out?

For the record, my blocking method is: I soak in cold water for at least 20 minutes (or until someone in the household says "What's that in the basin, Mummy?") After gently squeezing out the excess water, and arranging in the shape I want, I let it dry flat for about 12-24 hours, or until completely dry.

Gosh, with all this being sensible and mature about finishing my garments properly, who knows what I'll do next? Maybe knit a gauge swatch..!

Doll Cardigans

The dollies have new cardigans ready for the summer.

I am delighted to have found a use for this Noro yarn, Yuzen, which I do not like at all. It is perfect for this project, since no human skin has to wear I such a scratchy yarn. I do love the colours and I love the way they keep arriving throughout through the knitting. A small project like this is great for showing it off because each colour section is a good size, rather than being a small stripe.

I used a great pattern, the Top Down Doll Cardigan, (Ravelry link) I can see this being useful again and again in many different variations: for example a long sleeve, or a coat.

I changed the design of the second cardigan slightly. I made the collar and hem out of seed stitch. This stitch shows off a variegated yarn like no other and makes a stable edging. I went for a single button closure and I skipped the eyelets, because the don't show up in this yarn. The eyelets of the first cardigan are a little different from the pattern too, I went for alternating rows.

With the short sleeve style, these two cardigans used up exactly one skein of yarn for both.

Me-Made-May '14: Summary

I, Cathy of Cathy makes..., signed up as a participant of Me-Made-May '14. I endeavoured to wear a handmade item at least four days a week and, for one week, every day for the duration of May 2014.

Me-Made-May has been a great exercise, I am so pleased that I participated. Did I achieve my goal(s)? Yes! I wore 24 outfits in 31 days. 15 items went into the outfits.

Week 5

During the final 3 days of May, I had to finish on a high note: 3 for 3.

Day 1: Thursday 29th

Me-Made: Silver T-shirt

Weather: cold, overcast

Activity: work

Day 2: Friday 30th

Me-Made: 70's dress (worn as skirt), brown jumper

Weather: cold

Activity: work from home

Day 3: Saturday 31st

Me-Made: Yellow skirt, mustard cardigan

Weather: mild

Activity: gardening


My Challenge

I chose the four days a week challenge to make sure I wore something to work at least once a week. I work from home once a week so I knew I could hide out at home three days a week. By adding a fourth day, I had to get out to the office every week in something handmade. I hadn't figured out that there are also two holiday Mondays in May; if I had wanted to, I could have only worn something to the office on two days of the whole month. But it is a challenge and I wanted to stick to my goal so I went with my plan of one thing per week to the office. By the end of the month, I had actually worn something to the office 6 times. I got no funny looks, and no funny comments. The world didn't end either. Mind-blowing!

I had a second part to my pledge: for one week, to wear something handmade every day. A tryout of a full MMM, if you will. I got this part out of the way in week one, tackling it while the whole concept was still a novelty. I was on such a roll, I wondered if I should go for every day of the whole month. But then what challenge would I do in 2015? Plus, I got a bit bored of my clothes and was happy to mix in some RTW.

I also had an unstated goal of getting out and about in a completely handmade outfit. I accomplished this 3 times. Dresses make it easier.

My Clothing

My selection of handmade garments is very small. I had only 14 garments at the start of May when I searched this blog under the label for me. I also had a few hand knits that I made before I started this blog. Thankfully, the weather in May is quite variable and I could get out in both summer and winter garb in the same month. In a different climate, I would not have had enough clothing to keep up with the challenge all month without wearing the same things over and over again.

The variable weather and the different activities I undertook showed me that my handmade wardrobe spans both work and casual, warm and cool weather. I hadn't realised it was so varied. What a great thing to discover, I am very pleased with myself!

The item I reached for most was...
...my mustard knit cardigan. I wore it 6 times! I only finished it on 11th May! Imagine if I had it from day 1? In my own defence, it is seasonally prefect for May, was brand new and goes with nothing, therefore goes with anything. I think I'd better go and wash it now.

There were also a few items that did not make it on to the podium.  My two Sorbettos spring to mind. Sadly, one was more of a wearable muslin and is now truly only wearable for garden chores like washing the car. The other, I think the combo of fabric plus ruffle is too juvenile on me and I need to think about refashioning it. Maybe a black contrast trim, cutting off the ruffle, something to make me wear it. The other reason is that the weather was pretty bad in May so I needed winter gear. I sew more summer stuff so the odds were not in their favour. Another summer piece that I really like, but did not wear in May was my chiffon top.  Promise I'll wear you to work on the next gorgeous day, ok? I also have some unblogged knits that didn't get worn. Many things I knit are not suitable for leaving the house in.

I finished more projects during May than I typically do. I know it was the impetus of the challenge. I wasn't panic sewing (truly!) but I do sew more productively with a deadline. My May finishes were my grey dress, mustard cardigan and red skirt. I really wanted to add another Miette and a mustard t-shirt to my wardrobe, but the month is over and they are not finished.

Pictures

My pictures were so varied. Why did I have a terrible picture as my first outfit each week? The opening photo of the first two posts were awful.

A lot of my photos were snapped from a phone. These were usually the truly terrible ones. The indoor shots on rainy days were also dire. The best, by far, were those where I had time, and weather, to take the tripod outside and set up the nice camera.

Outcomes

Participating in the challenge really helped me to look at my handmades with a critical eye, to ask myself: Would I wear that today? If the answer was no, I needed to do something about it. For starters, I've learned that dress patterns need to be made up in a wild, fun print for weekend wear, or super-plain for work wear. Plus, prints hide, or distract from, a multitude of sewing, and fitting, sins. I refashioned a dress in a simple cotton print into a much more versatile top.

I have been noticing how much I like, or don't like, what I make. Honestly, I prefer RTW. I am proud of what I make and I love the process, but I don't like the finished results. They don't pass the would-I-buy-this? test. They are always just a little bit "off". A seam is puckered, or twisted, my hems are wavy. Why would I spend hours sewing a handmade garment when I can buy a fully finished one for less money? There is plenty of one-of-a-kind RTW around these days, the fabrics are better, the finishes are better, and I can try on to see if they suit me and leave it behind if the reality of my reflection doesn't match up with the fantasy of my inspiration.

The stark reality for a home sewer like me is fabric choice. Unless I have access to a specialty fabric store, I can get hold of quilting cotton, wool boucle, and some stretch jersey. RTW clothes are now made of much more sophisticated fabrics than these, handled by experts and it shows.

I don't mean to be all down on sewing here. I love sewing for the girls, the doll clothes are strangely gratifying, and I love the fact that I can sew. I think I just have to be a bit more choosy about what I actually make, and work to my strengths, while practicing on my weaknesses. I'm certainly not giving up now!

Postscript

Guess who was also playing along this month? Forget about me, I could have done a whole month of them in my handmades. The beauty of it is - I let them dress themselves!

Here she is, photo-bombing me today!