Monday, 23 February 2015

Granny Square Doll Blanket


After my first crochet class, I came home and cast on (hooked on?) for more granny squares. I don't normally buy acrylic yarn, but this seemed like the right yarn for this sort of project. I added the pink, green and turquoise to my stash, plus worked in some scraps from other projects. 

My class gave me enough information to be able to go away and figure out some other techniques for myself. For example, I figured out the joining method, with help from the internets, and joined these using a slip stitch on the right side. I would like to try this in a contrast yarn some time. The edging scallop is made from a set of single and double stitches: single, 3x double, single.

My squares are a bit uneven, I guess my tension is off, plus some of the scraps are different weights. I'm not too bothered about the waviness, it's fine for a practice project and blocking is not going to work in acrylic.

I'm looking forward to using up many of my scraps in such a fun way.

Sunday, 22 February 2015

Sewing Lessons

What kind of teacher will I be?
  a. a bad one
  b. so-so
  c. incomprehensible
  d. bossy
  e. all of the above

I'm really looking forward to showing a friend a few things about sewing garments. I'm so curious to find out how different it is to sew vs showing someone the basics of sewing.

I can't decide if we need to start with some really simple, straight seams. A pillowcase, or a tote bag. They are a little boring, but it is perhaps necessary to start with the basics. Plus, they give instant gratification because you get to take home something you made that day. Our eldest daughters are BFFs (so adorable!), and maybe we should make them matching pillowcases. Hmm, perhaps a trip to the fabric store this weekend...

For the first garment, I figured on a really simple child's tank dress. Taking inspiration from the Colette Sorbetto Top, I can draft a child's pattern and we can attach a drop waist gathered skirt.

Because we are getting all Sound of Music and making clothing from discarded household textiles, I'm going to use the checked sheet for my teaching sample. I'm going to add a button tab at the front neckline to break it up.


Here's how I thought it could break down into steps with new skills:

Stage 1
How to cut out a garment from a pattern. 
Including:
-how to read pattern markings
-grainlines and selvedges
-pinning and cutting
Result: pieces cut out and ready to sew

Stage 2
Using a sewing machine.
Including:
-how to thread a machine
-pinning and sewing a straight seam
-securing a seam at the beginning and end (reverse and couture)
-sewing a zig zag stitch
-the importance of pressing!
-intro to seam finishes
Result: side seams and shoulder seams sewn
(I am now convinced that this should be Stage 1 as a pillowcase - it's too much to ask to wait until the second stage to get our hands on a machine.)

Stage 3
Sewing a curved seam.
Including:
-intro to bias binding
-sewing a curved seam
-attaching an exposed bias facing
Result: neckline and armhole bindings

Stage 4
Attaching the skirt
Including:
-sewing a gathering stitch
-attaching the skirt to the bodice
-hemming
Result: finished dress!

There are a few things better suited for Dressmaking 2.0 which I will prepare in advance:
-pattern tracing and altering
-winding a bobbin
-making bias binding

Here is a dilemma: French seams are the right seam type here. Will I be doing my friend a disservice if I don't show her a flat seam with a zig zagged edge? I loathe flat, zig zagged seams. Loathe! They are the dead giveaway of a home made garment. There, I've answered my own question, I will positively be doing her a favour if she never learns how to do them!

I'm also in two minds about adding a centre back seam (more seam practice) with a small opening at the neckline. I don't want the dress to have a very scooped neckline, but it has to pull on and off over the child's head. A little button loop, or hook and eye closure could make the front much nicer. Finally, should I do facings rather than a bound neckline and sleeves? Again, facings are more useful to a home sewer because more patterns are written that way, but bindings are neater, especially on a lightweight, semi sheer fabric. Binding.

Unfortunately the BFFs have become too cool to wear dresses so they are not getting matching gear, but this will be a cute summer dress for hot summer days. 

Saturday, 21 February 2015

Colette Dahlia Dress


Ahh, the Colette Dahlia Dress. How the blogosphere loves a new indie pattern. By all accounts, it flew of the shelves when it was released earlier this year. I too grabbed mine during the launch discount. The waist yoke follows the design lines of one of my favourite RTW brands, Boden, and I know it works for my apple shaped figure.


I went against good advice and decided to make it up in a stretch, 2 meters of navy Ponte de Roma from Minerva. I have developed a love/hate relationship with this fabric. Love: it cut and sewed beautifully, it didn't move, didn't fray, didn't need pressing or seam finishing and it washed easily. Hate: it picks up lint like crazy. Then it doesn't let it go. It is an absolute nightmare. I can brush it and see the lint moving about like seaweed in a current. Nightmare.


I made it up with Version 1, with the sleeves and the straight skirt. I made quite a few modifications to the pattern, first for my shape and then for general fit issues through the high bust/shoulders. I measured a size 4 in the bust and hips and a size 10 in the waist. I ended up pulling in the waist to half way between the 6 and the 8. I have a strange figure like that. The high bust was way too large. I should have taken in the top of each shoulder seam by 1cm. But I ended up just taking in the back seams and gathering the centre front by a bit extra. I lengthened the sleeves by 4 inches to get them to cover my elbows. I gathered these too, and ended up taking in an additional 1cm through the lower sleeve too.

The waist yoke has ended up being very bulky. I should have made the inside piece in a lightweight cotton jersey. It doesn't look too bad in the pictures, but I am conscious that I don't need any extra bulk around my waistline.

I used my walking foot for the seams and hemmed it by hand.

Verdict
7 out of 10. Not a fail, but not a favourite. I'm on the fence about using this pattern again. I won't be buying more of this fabric.

Cost
Fabric: 2m Navy Ponte de Roma (Minerva) £13.04
Pattern: Dahlia pdf (Colette) £6.50
Zip: as instructed by pattern (John Lewis) £3.50
Thread: stash £0.00
Total: £23.04


Friday, 20 February 2015

Red Spotty Doll Dress



Another matching girl / doll outfit. These two just happen to have been made almost two years apart.

The red spotty fabric just keeps on giving, and giving, and giving. I made this dress in a slightly different style to the child's dress. This one has an empire line yoke, rather than a waist seam and gathered skirt. I used View D of Simplicity 1443.

My verdict on this pattern is that it is adequate, but no better than, the free pattern I found, and re-drafted, from All Things with Purpose. There are more details in the Simplicity one, lots of collar options, and every single detail is drafted: each bodice or collar ruffle has its own pattern piece. But these things can very easily be drafted, or in the instructions, by giving dimensions. I also find the skirts on this pattern too short. They are more toddler length than child length. I have been adding at least 2 cm to each skirt. 



The back of the child's dress was fastened with three red buttons, I added two false red buttons to this one. The real fastening is my standard two pieces of velcro.

My verdict: it's fine, but I prefer the full length bodice option, as seen in the original dress.


Costs:

Fabric: used previously, £0.00
Pattern: used previously, £0.00
Buttons: spares from RTW, £0.00
Thread: new 1,000m spool, ~£11.50
Velcro: stash, £0.00
Total: £11.50

Thursday, 19 February 2015

Crochet Granny Square


My first crochet - I made a Granny Square!

I went to a class at a local craft workshop, Tea and Crafting, and learned to crochet by making a Granny Square. Who knew that this is the perfect thing to teach beginners how to crochet? I've been wanting to make these for ages, and now I know.


It's not perfect, and the colours would not be my first choice, but I am pleased with it and am giving myself extra credit for getting out there and learning a new craft skill.


I had looked up online crochet tutorials, but I think this is a craft that is best taught in person. I could make an endless row of chain stitches, but nothing else. This has given me the foundation to think about other stitches and patterns and maybe turn this into a craft in regular rotation around here.


I even went home and worked out single crochet to add a row of stitches to my brown jumper. Next up, I'm making a series of squares, which will probably end up being a doll blanket.

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