Two Hats

These hats and dresses were my last hurrah for Summer.

After I finished the Starburst Dresses I asked Little One if she wanted something particular from the leftover fabric.  "A hattie!" was the reply.

Cue the free pattern from Oliver & S: the Reversible Bucket Hat.  Thanks so much!  It's a great pattern with gorgeous photography and illustrations.  The size Large was the perfect fit for both their noggins.

In addition to the Starburst cotton, I used the trusty old shirts for the reverse (which in this case will most likely be a lining).  Little Sis got the same bright blue as the lining of her Scooter Basket and Big Sis got the same palest blue as went into the bodice of the Butterfly Dress.  Total cost: £0.00 (although I am tempted to cost the dresses at £5.00 each and the hats at £2.75 each).

I added 1.5cm to the brim size and used heavyweight interfacing instead of medium.  A variation I might try in the future would be to keep the larger brim, increase the width of it to a full circle and leave out, or lighten, the interfacing to make a floppy hat. 

I didn't attach the crown B as per the instructions, I pressed under and then topstitched it to the brim.  I used contrasting thread for all the topstitching, turquoise for Big Sis and blue for Little Sis.  I didn't do the optional rows of stitching around the brim, partly for reasons of getting them finished in time for the end of August and partly because the brims were already so heavily interfaced that I didn't want to stiffen them further.

I should probably carry on and add a hatband of bias binding, it would add some variation and cover up my messy stitching.  Maybe a bow, or a detachable rosette.  But I almost never revisit a project, so they are more likely to stay this way forever!

Although I really like the pattern (if you're going to make a hat, make this one), I did not particularly enjoy sewing a hat.  I found all the joining on the curve frustrating and my edges did not line up smoothly.  There is a lot of cutting out in general and trimming of seam allowances in particular.  (Thank goodness for my rotary cutter!)  That said, this may be my first project where I have enjoyed assembling the second item more than the first.  Usually I get bored by the second project, but this one was more of a challenge, so I enjoyed the satisfaction of making the second one better, neater and way faster.

Second Starburst Dress

I got the second starburst dress made before the end of the summer!

Big sister got to choose the details: the colour of the yoke and which buttons she would have.  I got the buttonholes right this time!

I kept almost all the details the same as the first one.  I made the sleeves much shorter, almost half the length. I was planning to add pockets but I forgot.

They're so cute when they wear matching clothes!

Starburst Ruffle Sleeve Dress

I love it when a plan comes together.  And I love it more when a plan doesn't come together and I end up with a new plan that works out even better than the original plan!

Confused?  I would be too.

Here's the explanation.  I bought this fabric intending to make the Popover Sundress from Oliver & S.  I was going to create two cute versions with different colour accents.  Then I realised that us Londoners don't have enough hot weather to wear a strappy sundress, and I am so obsessive about the sun that on the 3 days of the year that it is warm enough, I hate their shoulders being uncovered anyway.  So no sundress.

Then I admired the Mara top from Compagnie M.  But it's not available yet.  Summer is almost over so it was now or never with making something out of this fabric.  (Can't count on a 7 year old being willing to wear this pattern, right?)

So I decided on this adorable ruffled / flutter sleeve dress that I have had pinned for ages.  I like the idea of the sleeves giving some sun protection and still being a truly summer dress.  One that can also be worn over a t-shirt, as often happens in our household.

Then I looked closely at the tutorial and didn't love the idea of adding 4 inches of width to the front and back to accommodate the elastic neckline.  I didn't want to increase the chest size by 8 inches and I couldn't figure out how to bring it back into line if I only increased the neckline.  (I might have an adult pattern that will give me a clue, just need to dig it out and have a look.  Any day now.)  I also couldn't figure out how to turn over the width I needed for the elastic casing and still have it flat (I realise now that that is the whole point!)

I made my first ever toile / muslin to try out an idea.  I finally cut up the torn dress disaster to make up a test neckline.  I widened the pattern by about an inch, stay stitched the neckline, notched, folded and stitched down.

(Sorry, I don't know why this is sideways)

It was pretty ugly but it might have worked as a hack on a child's pattern.  ...except it didn't fit over her head.

So I thought about opening up the shoulder seams and fastening with a button on each shoulder.  It would have worked but it wasn't a very sophisticated way to fasten the dress.  My next choice would have been to do a small, single button (reinforced) opening at the back.  For some reason, I was totally resistant to inserting a zip.

Then I had an epiphany.  Ok, not exactly an epiphany, but an idea nevertheless.  I was still hoping to use some form of contrast in each dress and I decided to add a pintucked yoke to the front.  I could use the yoke as a placket for buttons.  I checked out Craftiness Is Not Optional's tutorial and used this for the method for making the pintucks and attaching the yoke.  To make two halves and have them overlap for a placket, I drafted it wider by 3cm and didn't cut on the fold.

Can I just say, I loved, loved, loved making the pintucks?  I thought I would hate it but there was something so satisfying about making tiny folds and seams; pressing and stitching, pressing and stitching; that I was mesmerised!  It just goes to show: try new techniques as often as you can because you never know what is going to excite you.  (I need to get out more!)

I loved how working with just a small area meant I could quickly make a difference to the look of the fabric and how professional it made everything look.  I am coming to understand that these details, time consuming as they may be, are the details that give a garment the wow-factor that I have been looking for in many of my makes. Looking at the photos now, I do see that the proportions of the yoke and the sleeves are a little too large for this dress.  This is not so noticeable in person and the next one is going to be larger so these details should suit the larger size.  I will also reduce the sleeve length by about half.

To make up the yoke, I pressed and stitched, pressed and stitched, three times, from two different directions, then cut out two halves of the pintucked fabric and two halves for the back without tucks.  I stitched right sides together along all seams, leaving the shoulders open, added a tiny bit of interfacing along the button areas, notched and clipped like crazy then turned the two halves right side out for pressing.

Then it was time for buttonholes.  I was pretty successful in my stitching of them, they were even passable for the front of a garment.  One was a bit on the small side but I figured I could deal with it.  Then...  disaster!   When I was cutting them open, I ripped right through the buttonhole and into the rest of the yoke!  I couldn't believe it.  I sat there for about 30 seconds, unable to bear to look at what I had done.  Hours and hours of work and I was going to have to throw it all away.  (I didn't take a picture.)

No chance.  I'm no perfectionist and I was going to figure out a hack to be able to salvage that yoke!  I zigzagged the slash and the buttonhole closed.  I thought about folding it under and attaching button loops (I recently saw some great loops created using children's hair elastics).  But the elastics were going to overpower the design and I didn't want to figure out sewing matching loops and attaching them.

I went for velcro with fake buttons over the top.  Yes, velcro.  The fishing shirt that keeps on giving, gave again.  Ok, I should have used small snaps instead.  Next time.  Or, next time, I'll just get the button holes right.

Before attaching my beloved, tucked, slashed, hacked yoke to the dress, I needed to decide how to strengthen the dress and allow for the opening.  Plus it had to be comfortable for the child to wear.  I traced around the yoke outline with chalk and then stitched a row of stitching inside the chalk line.  Then I cut inside that with pinking shears.  If I was going all out, I could have finished the edge with bias binding.

(Blogger: better picture mgmt ok?)

I attached around the outside edges of the yoke, leaving the shoulder seams open.  I finished the back neckline with a row of 1 inch bias binding, attached as exposed bias facing.  After that, it was time to close the shoulder seams, getting everything nice and smooth, lying flat together.  (In theory, if not in practice!)

On to the sleeves: I was going to do the double ruffle as in the original dress, but instead used the slightly gathered sleeve that I drafted for another puffy sleeve dress.  I shortened the length and just made a tiny hem at the edge.  I'll experiment with a double-fold sleeve for next time.

Finally, I sewed up the side seams.  I forgot to do French seams but the dress was so large, I could go back and take it in with French seams. (Note to self: the A-line dress pattern fits large, especially with the back cut on the fold.)

I'm pretty proud of this finished dress.  It looks mostly how I wanted it to, I really like my pintucked yoke, and even if many of the other finishes are not wonderful, sewing for little ones is so forgiving that I can get away with many, many couture sins.

One big note of disappointment is the fabric.  I think it must be quilting cotton and it shows why so many bloggers are so scathing about sewing garments with quilting cotton.  It is really stiff and thick-in-a-bad way.  The needle punches through like it is going through paper and there is no hope of unpicking anything without massive holes showing.  I am not sure how the dress is going to hold up to laundering, even though I pre-washed the fabric.  I've bought other cottons from this supplier before but this one is completely different.  It highlights the risks of buying fabric online.

However, with risk comes reward.  The dress cost me £7.73 to make.  All of it was fabric, and I have lots left over to make the requested skirt.  It's a pity it has no drape, otherwise a full circle skirt would be next on my list-of-things-to-conquer.

Summer Skirt

I have been clipping and pinning skirt tutorials for inspiration and planning what I am going to do with my fabulous new prints.  I should probably make tops but, to me, these fabrics scream, "Skirt!  Skirt!  Make me into a skirt!"  So I did.  I started off with my second favourite fabric to see if my plans would work out.

The fabric is Amy Butler, Midwest Modern, Martini, Mustard, of which I had 1 yard from my American stash.  I didn't have enough yardage to make the full, pleated skirt that I was hoping for.  I think I have been spoiled recently with some very generous widths.  I didn't have much extra to play with here and the pleats are small, more like open darts.

I used methods from these tutorials:
 One Little Minute - a great pleated skirt tutorial
 Sew Mama Sew - how to add pockets to French seams

Plus, I want to bookmark this for future:
 Guthrie & Ghani - how to add pockets to a straight skirt

Waistband: is 43cm x 9cm.  Cut 2 lengths and added lightweight interfacing to one strip.  Join lengthwise along the top only, leaving sides open to finish after zip is in.  With this amount of width, the waistband needed to be angled in a few places.  I put a dart in the side and one in the back, plus the installation of the zip created a third area.  I should have perhaps cut the strips with angled sides.

Skirt: cut 55cm length, cut width in half for front and back.  For a full pleated skirt, I would have needed double the fabric, using a full width for the front and another for the back.

Made two pleats on each piece of fabric.  I really struggled with measuring these accurately and getting the skirt to fit the required width.  The fabric did not handle unpicking/reworking well at all.  In the end, I sewed the side seams, pinned the skirt pieces into the waistband and pinched the pleats out of the remaining fabric. They're not even and it was a total hack but it worked, thank goodness. If I had more width in the fabric, I would have liked to stitch down the top 15cm of each pleat and have it lie flat over the hips.  Next time.  I didn't press the edges of the pleats into creases, I left them open for fullness.

Pockets:  I had just enough fabric at the end of the yard to make two pockets.  My first ever pockets!  I traced over the pocket shape of a dress that I already have and now I have my very own pocket pattern.  I used the Sew Mama Sew tutorial so I could do French seams in the skirt.  Figuring out how to leave a space for the zip was a challenge (which I have now figured out) but, in this case, the selvedges came to the rescue.  In the end, I did one side seam with French seams and the other with regular seams and selvedges.  The pockets are way too low in the skirt. This was a deliberate decision, made when I was planning to stitch the pleats flat.  I wanted the pockets to enhance the skirt fullness lower down and to not pull open across the hips.  I can just about get my hands to the bottom!

I didn't get the zip edges to match, even after two tries.  This is close enough.  I also realised, after finishing, how to get the zip and the pocket into the same place in the side seam: I could have attached the front half of the pocket, left the back pocket seam open and put the zip in there.  Then I would have a pocket in front of an invisible zip.  Next time.

I thought hard about adding piping between the waistband and the skirt.  Lauren (at Guthrie & Ghani) does some lovely work adding piping to skirts.  I didn't have any cream or grey fabric or bias binding and I was too impatient to wait for any so I went ahead without piping.  Instead, I added two rows of top stitching.  I needed one row to attach the back of the waistband to the skirt and enclose the raw edges.  I liked the look of the second and I added a single row at the top.  Aside from looking decorative, I think they add to the strength and stability of the waistband.

Overall, how happy am I with this project?  Not delighted, but pleasantly surprised.  It didn't go to plan, I didn't get what I set out to create, the finished product is full of mistakes and I chose a palate that does not fit in to my wardrobe.  But, looking at the photos, it looks pretty good. Pleasantly surprised.

Final cost: £10.15

Fabric: £7.90

Zip: £2.25

Handing over handmades

Recent posts about upcoming birthday gifts have got me thinking about how I present finished handmades to the children.

I quote myself:

I make things for the girls all the time.  Once I'm finished, I just go, "Here you go, here's a dress/skirt/whatever", they put it on, I take a photo.  Done.  ...   Should I be making more of an occasion of giving the things I make them... ?

Perhaps the same should go for shopping for RTW clothing for them.  Getting new clothes is special, no matter where or how they are made.  I should be making it special for them.

Both girls are really sweet about the handmades.  They love them, they choose to wear them all the time.  When I made the red dress, I got the sweetest handwritten note as a thank you note.  Completely unprompted.  I keep it in my sewing box.

It is also really fun to involve them in the choices about what I am making.  (Of course, I only present choices where I am fine with either outcome!)   E chose the fabric for their daisy dresses from a selection that I had compiled online, she chose the puffy sleeve design for her red dress and there are many details that I can include which increase the choice and personalisation of the garment.  It is a great introduction to sewing and garment construction for them, plus, it increases the chances of them choosing to wear the finished product.

One of my most gratifying makes ever, was when little one asked me, so sweetly, to please knit her a skirt.  She saw me knitting all the time and she decided that was what she would like.  It was as though I could tangibly prove my love by producing a skirt.  I did it with pleasure.  It was so enthusiastically received that I can't wait to give her more, and more, and more.  A hat! A dress! A scarf!

But back to the presentation question.  I've decided it is ok to keep some makes back in the month leading up to a birthday.  At other times of the year, I'm not going to giftwrap them but some kind of "specialness" is worthy of creating.  The photoshoots help, we don't photograph their everyday outfits.  Actually, their father is wonderful at making a fuss of their handmade clothes.  He is so sweet.  When they bring him an outfit to show him, he makes a big deal of how nice it is and he tells other people if I've made an outfit when we are out and about.  I'm grateful because it is so nice to be acknowledged for a skill.  (I've not tested his enthusiasm with any handmades of his own yet!)

Granny's buttons

I'm lucky enough to have a stash of vintage buttons.  Some are from my Grandmother, some are from my mother (70s originals!), the one I used for the little blue dress came from a pair of dungarees that I myself wore as a toddler.

The buttons have been stored in various bags and drawers and I finally got a jar to display them.  I have my sewing stuff out in the living room the whole time, I might as well make decor of it, right?  The girls had fun emptying all the buttons into the jar and I had them empty all those little packages of spare buttons that come with coats and jackets.  We had a guessing game to see how far up the jar the buttons would come.  I won, they thought more.

The extra bonus was the Kilner jar so I can decorate it with scraps of fabric from my projects.  It fits right in on the mantlepiece!

Second Scooter Basket

After seeing the original scooter basket, of course, little sister wanted one too.

I don't always love repeating an item, but making something the second time is unquestionably faster and easier.  I didn't have to figure out the process and I had (just) enough documentation on sizing that I could make a duplicate.

I got stuck into one of the old shirts for the lining and the shirt was even so kind as to have some epaulets which I could re-purpose into straps.  I used blue thread for the stitching (and green for the bobbin as I have to use it up somehow!)  I learned my lesson from the first one and did a row of top stitching to close the top of the bag.  I really like the way it contrasts against the fabric, so much that I might go back over the red one with red stitches.

I know a lot of sewers are mad about making bags, but I'm not sure if it is really my thing.  I don't mind making them for the children here and there, but on the whole, I don't find them that rewarding.  (Ask me again after I get a picture of the two of them on their scooters!)

For the presentation of the finished item, I have a moral dilemma: I make things for the girls all the time.  Once I'm finished, I just go, "Here you go, here's a dress/skirt/whatever", they put it on, I take a photo.  Done.  Little sister has her birthday at the end of August and I am now storing makes to give her on her birthday.  Should I be gifting something I would give regardless?  Something big sister has probably already been given?  Should I be making more of an occasion of giving the things I make them the rest of the year?

Questions aside, she is getting some handmades as birthday gifts and there will be a photoshoot roundup for sure!

Butterfly Birthday Dress

This dress has been on my radar ever since May when I saw Sanae's beautiful version for Kids Clothes Belgian Style.  When I had the chance to buy some butterfly fabric of my very own, I snapped it up (well, a yard of it, anyway).

I used my own pattern for an A-line dress.  The previous dress is too large and gapes at the armholes so I shaved seam allowances off.  I am clearly a terrible cutter because this one only just fits.  Note for next time: stick to the pattern!  I also used my collar-drafting experience from the upcycling/knock-off disaster.  First, I used the collar from the torn dress, but it wasn't fitting around the circle of the neckline so I re-drafted a new one.  Having previous experience was helpful and made it go much faster.  Faster too was the fact that I was sandwiching the collar in between the bodice and a lining/facing, instead of attaching with bias binding.  I made a bodice lining in a pale blue from my stash of mens shirts.

My process (should have been):
1. Sew shoulder seams on bodice and lining
2. Sew bodice to lining at neckline and armholes, including collar.  Leave opening at back seam to sew lining/facing down over fastening.
3. Pull right side out through shoulder spaces.
4. Sew side seams together: Pull lining/facing up, away from bodice and sew one seam through facing, continuing on to bodice.  (Lining is right side together, bodice is right side together.  Do not sew bodice right side with lining on top, wrong side; as I did)
5. Sew back seam, incorporating fastening.  Fasten facing over, depending on fastening method.
6. Hem.

I tried my first invisible zip and, if I do say so myself, it went very well.  I splashed out and got myself a specialist zip foot and it made a huge difference.  I chose a cream 9" zip but I guess I should have gone for ivory because it came out very beige/flesh coloured.  I'll also remember to go for a much larger zip than I think I need because there is a lot of waste at both the top and the bottom of the invisible method.  9 inches of zip gives me about 7 inches of opening.

I did such a terrible job of lining up the lining with the bodice and forgetting to leave an opening at the neckline that I was left with a very scratchy and extremely ugly zip on the inside.

I went back and attached some bias binding to each side of the zip and now it shouldn't be uncomfortable to wear, plus it looks much better (even if I didn't match my thread colour until the last quarter of stitching).  Luckily I had some light blue binding left over from my first Sorbetto.

I knew I should hand-finish the hem but I expect it is only going to fit her for about 5 minutes so an hour of hand sewing vs five minutes of machining?  Guess which I did?

Hopefully she likes it and hopefully it fits.  Action shots of the recipient wearing it will have to wait until after her birthday at the end of this month...

Total cost: £9.02 (£22.02 inc new tools)

 Fabric: £6.77
  Fashion: £6.77 inc postage
  Lining: upcycle
  Collar: stash
 
Notions:
 Zip:  £2.25
 Bias binding: stash/upcycle

Thread: stash

New tools:
  Zip foot: £13.00

Little Pink Skirt

I've been desperate to whip up something quick with one of my new fabrics.  Time off on vacation and a knitting project for an upcoming birthday have meant that I've been away from my sewing machine for ages and it's been too long since I posted a completed project.

I only chose a half yard of this pink pattern fabric (Taza, Lisa, Pink; blogged about here).  I expected that it would be enough for a child's skirt.  Note to self: she is almost 7 now and 1/2 yard is not enough any more. 

I made the simplest skirt possible: selvedge to selvedge, elastic waist; for convenience and so I could use the most fabric possible.

In truth, I don't think the skirt shows off the fabric to its fullest extent.  The print is so pretty and, while the finished skirt is pretty, it doesn't have any wow-factor.  My previous elastic waist skirts have large sashes which tie in enormous bows at the back.  I keep thinking that a different style would have been better: a fitted skirt with a waistband, tiered layers, ruffles, something.  But I wouldn't have had enough fabric to make it in this size and I certainly couldn't have managed it in the time it took (less than 30 mins).  It should last her through next summer and she has a little sister to hand it down to.  So my USD 6.46 (£4.30) spend should get about 4 years worth of wear.  Not bad at all!

Taza, Lisa, Pink (1/2 yd, USD 3.46